The Care Sheet
Regal jumping spiders are easy to care for, even for novice keepers of inverts.
If you're looking for where to start then then look no further. In the care sheet I'll go over the basic care and what you will need to consider when thinking about getting a jumping spider. I'll also include care specific for 5th instar spiders (the age your most likely purchase a jumping spider at) as well as sub-adult and mature spiders for when they grow up. You'll also find a shopping list of what to get to make sure you are all set and ready to go.
GET YOUR COPY!
Welcome to the adorably addictive world of regal jumping spiders. These amazing creatures are colourful, fluffy, interactive, and, as the smartest of all spiders, truly captivating.
This comprehensive guide is a one-stop resource, perfect for young keepers, novice keepers, and experienced invertebrate enthusiasts.
Featuring vibrant colour photography throughout, this book guides you through every step of providing a thriving home for your regal jumping spider pet.
Should I get a jumping spider?
Yes. Well, that’s the answer summed up. They are amazing little creatures with a bundle of personality.
With getting any pet, though, you need to think:
-Do you have the time and money to keep your little one happy and buy all the equipment they need to thrive and not just survive?
- Are you happy to handle other insects that your jumping spider feeds on?
The best jumping spider for a new keeper is the Phidippus regius also known as a regal jumping spider and that is exactly the species I specialise here at Arachnamoria
But I am an arachnophobe…
That’s fine, so was I, but my view of spiders is changing day by day. I certainly don’t see mine the same way anymore. In fact, most common spiders look less ‘spidery’ to me too.
You can take your time getting acquainted with your spood, and if you can’t bring yourself to hold them, that is fine. They are just as happy just to be observed.
What will I need?
The first and foremost thing is an enclosure so let’s talk about that. Jumping spiders are arboreal, so this means they love to climb, hunt and live up in the trees. So, the first thing is to look for a nice tall enclosure.
The instar of the spider depends on the size of the enclosure
If you’re getting an 8th instar to adult spider, you can go for a bigger enclosure such as the Exo-terra nano tall or mini tall. Front opening is the best.
5th instar babies will need a smaller enclosure to help them learn to hunt and minimise the chance that they’ll escape through vents. The size should be at least 10cm tall, and taller than it is wide.
5th instar spiders should not be kept in sling vials, or house in bug cubes commonly found on Amazon and Ebay, these are far too small
In the online shop there is a range of starter kits, including the starter to adult kit that will have everything you need.
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Enclosure -
Starter for spider 5th - 7th instar
Larger for 8th - Mature
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Heat Mat - must be used with a thermostat
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Thermostat
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LED Light
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Fruit Fly Culture - D.Heydei
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Fine Mist Sprayer
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Cleaning Kit
Shopping List
The enclosure will need to be placed somewhere where the temperature isn't prone to rapid fluctuations such as a bathroom or kitchen, these areas are also unsuitable due to the cleaning products may use in them. A window ledge may seem like a great idea at first but they can be drafty, or strong sunlight may cause the enclosure to overheat quickly. Cabinets and shelves are the best choice, away from drafts, direct sunlight, and loud noises such as a TV.
**Warning** Chemicals in the air such as from cleaning products, air fresheners, scented candles or smoking/vaping have been noted to cause health issues and even the death of pet spiders. Please use caution and common sense around your pet to ensure their safety.
The enclosure won't need daily cleaning or substrate changing, once a month you can remove any insect remains, and wipe down the sides to clean them of spider poop as and when required.
Did you know?
The Regal Jumping Spider comes from sub-tropical places like sunny Florida and the warm climates of Cuba and Jamaica. It is important for us to do our best to replicate the very best of their natural habitat to make sure we keep happy and healthy spiders.
What about heat?
Ahh, yes, the Phidippus species come from slightly warmer climates than the great weather here in Britain. It is advisable to have as they like to be be around 22 to 26oc, Yes they can survive at a lower temperatures but to thrive they shouldn't spend long periods below these temperatures.
For a comfortable, happy spood, I recommend using a heat mat and thermostat.
What about light?
Have you tried wandering around your kitchen in the pitch black? It’s like a death trap, and no way to cook a roast dinner.
Like this, jumping spiders won’t hunt without enough light, and we often have many dreary days here in the UK. I highly recommend you get a bright LED lamp, one that mentions daylight is fine, to have on for 12 hours of the day. There is no particular version of the LED lamp, so feel free to browse for one you like.
I would avoid bulbs, however, as these can add to the temperature of the enclosure and dry the air.
What do I feed my spider, and how does it drink?
Water is a simple one. They don’t drink from a bowl or a sponge; instead, they drink from tiny water droplets. It’s fun to watch a little spider making a trail on the side of their misted cage as they drink. Remember that their lungs are on their underside, so you’ll need a fine mist spray bottle.
When it comes to food, size is a factor once again. Baby spiders of 5th instar will need fruit flies (not curly wings, or bottle flies) or hatchling locusts.
At around 7th instar the spider can move up to flying insects such as fruit flies, curly winged flies, green bottles and bluebottles. They can also have small to medium locusts, or a tasty wax wing. Check out the Arachnamoria blogs for more details on what you can feed your jumping spider, with tips and trick to help you feed them.
Be careful not to leave crickets and mealworms in the enclosure as they have a pretty nasty bite, and crickets can quickly kill a fragile moulting spider.
Depending on the size of the spider and the size of the prey, they can take a good few hours to bite, liquify and slurp up the insides of their prey. So a small spider might spend half a day or more eating their breakfast, whereas an adult spider might catch and eat a large bluebottle before you’ve even realised.
A baby spider will need 2 large fruit flies every day, but as they get larger and their food gets larger, they will need feeding less often.
A good way to judge when next to feed is to look at their abdomen: If is is plump and round you can skip the feed that day and check back in a few more days